Sometimes...

You want to post stuff, but you know it will tick someone off...

I keep reading on the big knitting lists and groups about how someone just got their new knitting magazine, and how they don't like it... Well, I know, some have subscriptions, but if you don't like it, don't buy it. Cancel the sub., don't renew, whatever. But don't sit there and say "I don't know anyone who would wear that". Or, "they aren't writing the mag. the same way they used to".

Get real, people - everyone has different taste, not everyone has the magazine from issue #1, and the world is changing - why would a magazine continue to print the same old same old - you 'd then be bitching that the keep repeating themselves.... Oh, wait, that was what you said about the articles - you already know how to do those methods, why should you read about them again.... Like I said, not everyone has been reading from the dinosaur age.

The other thing that is a recurring topic and argument is taking knitting needles on planes... People, please, get a grip - pack your precious tools, and take a nice safe paperback book. Why keep bitching about getting your knitting taken away, maybe, or buying different needles than you are used to, just in case... If you don't' like to knit with plastic needles, why buy them just to knit on a plane??? You claim you want to enjoy your knitting.... I don't care if one person "got away" with taking their needles on the plane by "fooling" the security (do you really think they can't tell a pen or pencil from a pointy object?? Double pointed, even? ) . That amounts to smuggling the item on board, and could cause a lot more trouble for you than just having your tools confiscated... As for the thing that "you" are not a threat, you just want to knit, try to remember, a very large portion of crimes are crimes of opportunity... you might not plan anything, but what about the person in the next seat or across the aisle? What is to stop them from grabbing your needle or crochet hook away from you? These rules are in place for your own safety, people - don't make it harder on the security people who are only trying to do their job.

Ok.... I feel better now... I just needed to vent. I mean, really, I agree that each should have their own opinion, but to publicly dis a magazine and insult the people who do enjoy it... If I would have posted the first paragraph above to the email group, I'd have been put on moderation or kicked off the list... I know, because I've seen others get publicly wrist-slapped for going against the flow... fifty or sixty messages on how bad the magazine is getting are fine, but one or two say they like it, and those one or two get blasted publicly and privately....

I LIKE INTERWEAVE KNITS MAGAZINE AND KNITTER'S MAGAZINE. So there. If you don't, feel free to write on your own blog that you don't. That is what free speech is all about....

FREE SOCK PATTERN!!!!

Ok, first of all... I confess. I haven't finished knitting these socks yet. But, I just have to do the foot and toes...


You know how you plan things, then life happens? Well... My laptop keyboard died. I have the netbook, but couldn't get at my email properly, plus the "good" file was on the laptop - only notes and rough copy on the netbook. So, I had my hands tied for a couple days on editing the pattern. Then, you know how when you knit, the ball starts to collapse on itself, and starts to tangle? Then you drop it? And you are working two socks at once from one ball, and until that moment were quite proud of yourself for staying untangled? Well.... The last 15 rounds of foot, and the toe are going very slowly...BUT - I wanted to share anyway. Please be sure to read the notes section of the pattern. Thank you. And thank you to those who test knitted. I appreciate the help :)


I LOVE RIBS SOCKS

Easy pattern, but some sock knitting experience needed.

Materials: 420 m/100g fingering weight sock yarn(Lana Grossa Meilenweit Stile was used for the prototype); US 3/3.25mm needles (US2/2.75mm needles)
IMPORTANT material note from a test knitter: Regia sock yarn is not suitable for this pattern - it apparently is too thin.

Size: Mens' medium (ladies medium)

Gauge: 30 sts over 4 inches using the 3.25/us3 needles. I will update with the US2/2.75 gauge when I can... (need to finish foot and toe of the socks I'm working on, then do a swatch with the leftover yarn)


NOTE: I made these socks for my husband, who wears a mens' size 8. I use the same stitch counts to make socks for me, but use a smaller needle. I have tried on the leg and heel portions of the sock on myself; because of the nature of the rib, the socks even in the larger size hug my legs just fine. Any other changes for the smaller size are in brackets ( ) following the larger size directions (refer to heels and toes for size changes). All other numbers will apply to both sizes. If you wish, you may subtract groups of four stitches from the cast on to make the socks smaller, or add groups of four, but that will change the numbers for the heels. You can add or subtract rows as needed to make the socks longer or shorter for other sizes; the rib has a lot of flexibility for width.


Abbreviations:
K = knit
P = purl
K2tog = knit next two stitches together.
SSK = slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert point of needle back into the front of these two stitches, knit them together through the back loops.
W&T = wrap and turn – on knit rows, move yarn to front as if to purl, slip next stitch as if to purl. Return yarn to back ready to knit, turn work ready to purl next row. On a Purl row, move yarn to back as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to purl, turn work ready to knit next row.

Using your favourite method, cast on 72 stitches.

Begin knitting in the round with P1, *K2, P2, repeating from * to last three stitches in the round, K2, P1. (You may use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round if you wish; I just use the yarn tail) Repeat this round 59 more times, for a total of 60 rounds or about 6 inches in the leg.

Begin Heel: (worked over one half of the total stitches)
With yarn in front, slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 34 stitches, W&T.
Slip first stitch as if to purl, purl 33 stitches, W&T.
Slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 32 stitches, W&T
Slip first stitch as if to purl, purl 31 stitches, W&T
Continue in this manner, working one less stitch before W&T, until you have knit a row with slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 10 (6) stitches, W&T.

Slip first stitch as if to purl, purl 10 (6) stitches, W&T
Slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 10 (6) stitches, W&T
Slip first stitch as if to purl, purl 10 (6) stitches, slip next stitch as if to purl, pick up the two wraps at the base of the stitch just slipped, return slipped stitch to left hand needle, purl the wraps together with the stitch, W&T
Slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 11 (7) stitches, slip next stitch as if to purl, pick up the two wraps at the base of the stitch just slipped, return slipped stitch to left hand needle, knit the wraps together with the stitch through the back loops, W&T
Slip first stitch as if to purl, purl 12 (8) stitches, slip next stitch as if to purl, pick up the two wraps at the base of the stitch just slipped, return slipped stitch to left hand needle, purl the wraps together with the stitch, W&T
Slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 13 (9) stitches, slip next stitch as if to purl, pick up the two wraps at the base of the stitch just slipped, return slipped stitch to left hand needle, knit the wraps together with the stitch through the back loops, W&T

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before W&T, until you have purled a row with slip first stitch as if to purl, purl 34 stitches, slip next stitch as if to purl, pick up the two wraps at the base of the stitch just slipped, return slipped stitch to left hand needle, purl the wraps together with the stitch. Turn.
Slip first stitch as if to purl, knit 34 stitches, slip next stitch as if to purl, pick up the two wraps at the base of the stitch just slipped, return slipped stitch to left hand needle, knit the wraps together with the stitch through the back loops.

Begin knitting in the round again: Start with a make one, by picking up a stitch from the bar immediately before the first unworked purl stitch. Insert the point of the right-hand needle back to front, place this new stitch on the left hand needle, and purl this together with the first purl stitch on the instep needle. *K2, P2, repeat from * 7 more times. End with knit 2, slip last stitch as if to purl, make a stitch in the bar immediately beside the slipped stitch by inserting the point of the left hand needle back to front, place this new stitch on the left hand needle , return slipped stitch to left hand needle, purl together with the new stitch. This will reduce the gap that forms between the heel stitches and the foot stitches when you begin knitting in the round again. Blocking and time will further reduce any remaining hole.

Continue knitting in rounds, working stocking stitch (knit every round) on the bottom of the foot, and beginning and ending with p1, working k2, p2 rib on the instep (top of the foot) stitches, until the sock is the length desired. (usually 1.5 inches before tip of toe)

Begin toe decreases: K1, SSK, knit to last three stitches of first half of sock (in the first round this will be 30stitches), K2tog, K1. Repeat for second half.
Next round, knit even.

Repeat these two rounds, knitting fewer stitches between decreases each round, until there are a total of 20 (16) sts. left. Graft toe, or use the three needle bind off to close toe.


Copyright Anne Cousins 2011. You have permission to print this pattern for yourself or your friends, to distribute the pattern for free as long as you do not claim to have authored it. You may also do as you wish with the socks you make from this pattern: you can gift them, sell them, or keep them. Please do not sell the pattern, as this is not only not fair to me, but also to the person you try to sell to – I’m offering the pattern free on my blog, so all may access it.